My knobs broken!!!

[tower of power]

Hi people....

Its been a while since i've posted on this fantastic forum.....

One of the realtime control knobs on my fantom-s is broke...
The far right one to be precise..

The values just keep on jumping around!!!

A good friend of mine can change the pot, but he needs to know exactly what kind of pot it is.....capacity...resistor...etc etc...

Im not very technically minded about things like this......

Could anyone please tell me exactly what kind of pot the fantom-s uses ??


Many many thanks in advance people...

Regards
Martin...

[lazeeboy]

I just finished repairing my Fantom X's Cutoff Frequency Knob and I've made some wonderful pictures of the inside.

I ordered a replacement knob, but it turned out (after 6 month of waiting time) that it was a volume/input volume potmeter instead of one of the assignable knobs. Luckily I could repair the potmeter by soldering the connections again carefully and using a screwdriver I was able to bend the metal part of the potmeter upwards so it didn't move so much anymore (which was probably the reason the tin islands broke in the first place). You (or a technical friend) can probably repair it yourself using a solder device. If you've got warranty left I would try that first if I were you. Also be sure to get rid of any static electricity on you person by touching something (metal) connected to the ground like the heater on the wall.

Remove screws fromBottom.
Remove top print by removing a bunch of flat cables 1 screw and pinching a plastic thingy(another picture and another)
Also remove back panel for the top print to come off. Here's a picture of the screws.
Remove screws of the bottom print (2 screws are hard to reach) Picture 1, Picture 2, Picture 3 and Picture 4

Hope this helps!

Regard,
Laurenz Nitert

[Artemiy]

OT:

Lazeeboy, thanks a lot for helping our guys here. I have read many useful replies from you, great work, keep it up!

[robbie50]

Lazeeboy,

Nice pictures....are there more?
Please post them or send them to me....
I wanna seeing the X inside but I affraid to open mine!

greetings,

rob

[lazeeboy]

Thanks Art!

Robbie50: sorry I haven't got any more pictures. I forgot to photograph the keyboard itself.

Regards,
Laurenz Nitert

[robbie50]

oke!
Thanks for your reply....

greetings,

rob

[tower of power]

thanks very very much for the replies guys....

But i still dont know exactly what kind of pot it is....

could anyone help?

[lazeeboy]

I don't know the exact type of pot either. You could ask a Roland dealer or service station and order one there as the match would be exact. The pot meter I got (the wrong one) doesn't have anything printed on it so you would have to measure it with an Ohm meter or something.

Have you opened you Fantom up yet? Try to inspect the solder points for little tears. It's easily corrected once you've opened it up. Also if it wobbles a lot try to bend the metal casing of the postmeter's belly upwards using a screwdriver.

Regards,
Laurenz Nitert

[robbie50]

Is there nothing on the potmeter...
like;
100 Kohm of lin ???
or
150 Ohm log ?

Or a code??
Maybe Artemio can help us!

rob

[lazeeboy]

Man, with tiny letters it says:

M35 30
20kA (A)

Also there were numbers on the little bags in which the knob and potmeter came:

03565234 (probably the knob, don't know for sure)

and

03126167 (probably the potmeter, don't know for sure)

But in this case it's the WRONG potmeter. The one I have here is for the Fantom X's Volume/Input Volume knob. Not the assignable knobs and maybe the Fantom S's potmeter is different to the ones in the Fantom X.

I suggest you open it up yourself to see what is says for the Fantom S assignable knobs to be sure what to order.

Regards,
Laurenz Nitert

[tower of power]

thanks very much people....

Am I right in beleiving that the warranty is for 3 years?

Cheers
Martin

[stevew]

Lazeeboy

Great pictures. Could you please explain a little more what you do after first removing the bottom screws? And also what do you mean by "remove top print"? Will this be possible after removing the bottom screws? I assume the whole operation is done with the X8 face down on some cushions, is this correct?

Many thanks

Steve W

[lazeeboy]

Indeed it is done top-down. The top print is actually the bottom print when the Fantom is upside down. To be more exact then, you first have to remove the bottom print in order to reach the top print. Let's just call the first and second print in order of removal. It all becomes clear once you open it up and see for yourself. It's not as difficult as you might think.

Once you removed the bottom screws turn the Fantom around to it's normal position again. You can then sort of "open the lid" by grabbing both sidepanels and open it like a chest.

Then remove the flatcables that prevent it from opening completely.

Move the keyboard (bottom) part to another location so you'll work only on the top (aluminium) part of the Fantom.

Now you can remove the first print by removing on screw, pinching the plastic thingy and removing the 6 screws of the backpanel. You could completely remove all the ribbon cables to remove the 1st print in it's entirety or remove the ribbon cables of just one side so you can sort of "turn" it out of the way. I chose the latter option.

Next, you're able to remove the 2nd print by removing the coppery screws as well as the 4 black screws attached to the metal "distance keepers?". 2 of the coppery screws are a bit hard to reach with a normal screwdriver but I was able to do it and so can you

When you lift the 2nd print out also be sure to remove any ribbon cables that prevent you from doing so.

Advice/warnings:
- Repairing the Fantom yourself is not without riscs; only repair it if you accept them.
- Remember the orientation of the ribbon cables and it's proper place and remember to plug them in again (I forgot the one of the F1-F8 keys ; use my pictures for reference if you forgot.
- Release all static electricity which you might be carrying around by touching something grounded like a heater on the wall and be sure NOT to wear anything woolen or synthetic; discharging static electricity (or ESP as it more commonly known) into the Fantom's unsuspecting DSP or other delicate chips might very well DESTROY it completely. You'll probably have to buy another mainboard if you screwed up.

Regards,
Laurenz Nitert